This is about the evolution of the Canemaker, a simple, air layer propagation device for sugarcane. If you want to get right to how it is now, scroll down to 3/3/18. If you want to spend a few minutes reading, I think you'll enjoy how it came to be.
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Some years ago I ordered a few big bamboo varieties. Due to an accidental yard fire at our neighbor's place it was burned down in its fourth year, just starting to get some respectable size. It came back but has been slow and will probably have some 1" diameter canes this year.
Back then I had an idea for a bamboo limb air layering device called "Charlie's Canemaker Can". It was simply a plastic snuff can with a matching diameter-to-cane size plug cut off one side and an indention added into the lid for the limb. It was to be taped to the side of the main cane and hold damp media until the lateral formed roots.
Alas, I learned the variety of bamboo did not take well if at all to air layering of lateral shoots. I'm pretty sure no bamboo will and they all require rhizome propagation.
But sugarcane will!
Everything I'm seeing says this will work on sugarcane and so here it is, my gift to the sugarcane world, Charlie's Canemaker Can.
Seeing as I don't yet have any sugarcane with which to experiment, it is simply taped to the side of a stick of bamboo. You have to use your imagination here.
It is applied to the bud side and should cover a portion of the bottom of the bud and some of the node section where roots form. The 1/2" wide indention is for the bud to have room if it decides to break out or has already began to grow.
A couple rounds of vinyl electrical tape hold it securely and should not harm the cane for any length of time since the outer skin should well be hard by the time this would need to be used and should not need to be on for very long according to what I've learned about sugarcane rooting.
What's the benefit? Sugarcane buds seem to root just fine plopped into a bucket of water or any pot of damp media. In my thinking it will benefit by cutting out steps and in early root development. There should be no need to apply any chemicals of any sort to the plant prior to potting or planting. Any excess cane material that may encourage mold or insect attack could be easily trimmed away since the plant should have sufficient roots to immediately begin nutrient uptake.
If one knows when they are going to harvest a cane, one or more of these may be applied to select buds to encourage root development which will be contained within the media inside the can, a couple or few weeks prior to cane harvest. The thickness of the can looks like it pretty much matches the thickness of the tough node material which is cut out anyway so there is no waste. The bud will not have to rely on it's own stored energy while forming roots as in a usual seed bud preparation.
When removed, the lid simply comes off, the bud shoot should lift straight out of the can with roots undisturbed and intact as any good air layer and immediately go into a pot or ground, whichever is applicable to the situation and just take off growing.
That's how I imagine it anyway. Time will tell. I hope some folks with growing sugarcane will be inspired to try this and report. It's one of those things that has a lot of variables so one size will not fit all.
I reckon people know the diameter of their respective cane varieties, which can also vary with time of year and environmental conditions. You just need to get close a match to the diameter of the cane so it sits snug against the side. The cane above in the photo has a 1-3/8" diameter so that is the size of hole saw I used to cut the plug out of it.
Match the cane diameter as close as possible with hole saw but it doesn't have to be perfect because it's not rocket science. The better fit will ensure the media doesn't dry out too quickly. If you find ants that like to climb up and nest within the can, wrap some of the black tape backwards, below the air layer. They can't cross it and is what I do when figs start to ripen.
A little tip when hole sawing plastic, reverse makes a much easier and more smooth cut. About 1" width of the edge of the can and lid were removed and the 1/2" diameter bud way was then cut with a glass cutting hole saw bit.
If I were air layering fig laterals for example with this device, I would cover the can with foil or pre-paint it to be white on the outer surface to prevent the roots from being cooked. A black plastic can in the sun will heat up in excess over 100 degrees F, same as a black plastic pot. This will kill fig roots in the South. I don't know about sugarcane roots but will probably lean on the side of caution and cover the can with foil to reflect heat.
The way I see it going is, making up a bunch of cans with damp coco-coir or choice of media, wrapping the outside with a couple wraps of the tape, plus a little extra for the cane diameter and this will hold the media in the prepared cans. Put them in a bag and go out for placing onto buds, unwrapping the tape just prior to fixing to the canes. This is all one will have to carry if they are pre-made.
I did not write this up in order to sell the thing. Most people can get, have or find access to a drill and hole saws and probably knows somebody who uses snuff cans and throws them away. Some may find this all to be useless junk.
Canes come in so many different diameters it will almost assuredly have to be custom. From what I'm seeing, canes generally run between 1" - 2" diameter and everything in-between. Those who know their cane will likely have a good general idea of the usual respective sizes needed.
Some may ask if I will make for them. Before I would agree to do that in any capacity, it has to work. If you read all this, you know it's only a concept I imagine will work. I hope somebody will prove it does before I get the chance, which will probably be fall of this year, 2018.
Henceforth it will simply be known as...
Charlie's Canemaker. Sugarcane Propagation Simplified (maybe!!!)
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Update 3/3/18
Having witnessed the root growth of sugarcane nodes, it was decided that a snuff can simply isn't enough room and the fact of it being custom made for each size of cane. Several different things have been tried and there's no need to show them all since this is the evolution result and I believe solves all previous issues.
It's clear for my intended purpose that the device needs to be rigid in order to secure to the cane and fit any size diameter we may wish to propagate from. It needs to be simple enough for anyone who wishes to make and use and it needs to be re-usable so there is little to no waste.
A vacuum seal bag is cut and sealed along the edges so that 3.5" exists as the width sealed portion when laid flat. I did search commercially available poly bags and there are 3.5" wide available from a few bag supply places. I will test this to make sure it works before spending any more money.
A 1.25" length of 2" daimeter PVC pipe is cut and a .75" wide section is cut out. This provides the opening and takes advantage of the "spring" effect of the PVC. It is squeezed closed just a bit to fit into the bag opening and slid up to the desired level. At this point it holds the bag fairly secure and the bag appears to be drawn tight across the PVC opening.
Here's where we solve the custom size issue and now one size does fit any and all diameters of cane we may wish to propagate. When pressed onto the side of a columnar shape, the plastic gives and the PVC springs inward to compensate, thus making a perfect, air-tight fit to the side of the cane. In this example it's the handle of my garden shears.
As for media to fill the bag, once secured to the cane, I reckon the most heavy thing anyone might ever use is saturated sand so this is simply a weight test. Take note of the area above the edge of the plastic bag and below the top of the PVC. This is where it will be installed onto the node and will allow contact of the damp media with the node area that roots form.
The following photo's show the Canemaker fastened to a piece of bamboo since we don't have any sugarcane big enough. A few rounds of electrical tape hold it very securely. A less heavy media would probably do fine with a couple rounds.
When the time comes I will cover this with aluminum foil after installation, that will provide closure for the top to keep media damp and reflection of sunlight so it doesn't heat up and cook the roots.
Or use white duct tape. This depends of course if the air layer is to be done where there's significant sunlight exposure. If the sugarcane canopy provides ample shade, there shouldn't be any need for coverage.
Here's an example application of the Canemaker with white duct tape. Installed onto the cane, top flush with bottom area of bud, which should allow some exposure of root nodules to the moist media. You have to imagine again!
Filled and slightly packed with damp media to the top. Keep the top edge of the PVC clean.
Sun or shade, we still need to seal the top and this can be done by applying white duct tape and pressing it to the top edge of the PVC, leaving a little overhand to secure it well to the outsides. If full coverage is desired, apply tape to make it so.
Shown as example two nodes on the same cane being done. The top one has only a 1" long section of 2" diameter PVC, vs 1.25" in the description above. It seems to hold just as well and we can get more pieces per pipe.
White duct tape seals the top. We could go another round about the cane if we want to make sure it stays sealed.
Making Canemakers. I want at least one for every variety by the time they get large enough to propagate. Here's five and it takes about five minutes each to make, give or take a minute or few.
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3/4/18
Suppose you just have to have a Canemaker and run out of bags. Everybody has a roll or two of foil and so here's a foil model just in case. I've done many air layers with foil balls, foil wraps and it works very well. Hard to reuse since it gets torn up most times when removing the plant.
It was rolled around a length of 2" PVC pipe to match the PVC piece and then taped to it.
Instead of relying on the foil to give in conforming to the cane diameter, a piece of electrical tape was applied prior to taping on the foil cylinder.
Packed well with damp sand for a strength test and it's fine. The bottom was rolled a couple times prior to filling and taped with duct tape.
As for the plastic bags, I'm noticing a bit of stretch and so tried cuffing over the top edge about 1/2" - 3/4". Like the way it feels and looks so went back and did all of them the same.
Did you notice the PVC turned gray? That's actually 2" PVC electrical conduit, is made to be out in the weather and won't degrade in sunlight like PVC water pipe. What I've used so far has been from pieces on hand but will purchase conduit for future use.
I don't think it's been mentioned how I'm prepping the PVC pieces. They are cut to length on an electric miter saw. The cut-out piece is being done with my Ace Hardware Anvil Pruning Shears.
The miter saw makes perfectly square cuts. To make a straight cut-out on each piece, allow it to rest on the shears frame as indicated by the red arrows below and squeeze to cut. Move over the desire length and make the second cut. Be aware the plug may fly out in any direction at the finish of the second cut so have it blocked from your eyes.
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